Jewelry box

[Marc Lizer]

http://home.earthlink.net/~spcldlxe/pix/box1.JPG

http://home.earthlink.net/~spcldlxe/pix/box2.JPG

http://home.earthlink.net/~spcldlxe/pix/box3.JPG

http://home.earthlink.net/~spcldlxe/pix/box4.JPG

http://home.earthlink.net/~spcldlxe/pix/box6.JPG

http://home.earthlink.net/~spcldlxe/pix/box7.JPG (the bottom/underside)

This one turned out nice.

[Less]

Nice Job, Great Idea, Can you describe the process – particularly the base.

[ArtLady]

Way Cool!!

[Marc Lizer]

I'm shooting some pix for a step by step walk thru for "the making of."

But to answer the first questions: The base is N1510 from Universal. Just turned upside-down.

The top is a veneer frame. VID (visual inside dimension, as opposed to inside dimension being the rabbet size) cut to the the size of the tile.

More pix to come . . .

[Marc Lizer]

If you not using a pre-made mldg. Measure to the rabbet and cut the frame.
For this one, I am using unfinished solid rock maple. Next you join the frame on the "wrong side."
http://home.earthlink.net/~spcldlxe/pix/makebox1.JPG
http://home.earthlink.net/~spcldlxe/pix/makebox2.JPG
See how the nails are in what is usually the top of the frame? Of course if you biscuit or dowell you do not need to worry about this part.

Once you have the frame or "lid" joined, then make the box. Measure to the outer edge of the lid. This is to be the same size as the outer edge of the base.

Here is the base. It is cut, and as you will notice, joined on the "wrong" side again. I have taken pix of both sides. Take a look.
http://home.earthlink.net/~spcldlxe/pix/makebox3.JPG

http://home.earthlink.net/~spcldlxe/pix/makebox4.JPG

As for all that red stuff. Don't worry about it. I'll explain that in the next set of pix tomorrow.

[MiterMan]

Wow! Nice box, Marc.

How big is it?

Is that the walnut Valagio from Larson Juhl?

[Marc Lizer]

The tile itself is 6 x 8. As for the frame: We, normally do these using solid walnut or solid maple. I am unsure of the actual manufacturer or number of this mldg since it was pulled discontinued bin.

[Marc Lizer]

So back to the other one.
Yesterday I cut, joined and stained the frame.
Today I put a finish on and ended up with.
http://home.earthlink.net/~nonyani/images/box5.JPG
pictured is both the lid and the base. Both are joined "upsidedown," or on the "wrong" side.

This pic has all the board needed to complete the prodject. One is 6 x 8, and the other two are 8 1/2 x 10 1/2.
http://home.earthlink.net/~nonyani/images/box6.JPG

Put the two boards back to back and drop them into the base, and it will look like this:
http://home.earthlink.net/~nonyani/images/box7.JPG
and THIS. (http://home.earthlink.net/~nonyani/images/box8.JPG)

Drop the other, face down into the lid and it looks like this:
http://home.earthlink.net/~nonyani/images/box10.JPG

Open the lid and it looks like this: http://home.earthlink.net/~nonyani/images/box11.JPG
or
http://home.earthlink.net/~nonyani/images/box%2012.JPG
depending if you use a flash or not.

[Marc Lizer]

Since the frame is finished on the front and back, inside and outside, I do not need to line the inside sides of the box, or hide unsightly unfinished backs of manufactred mldg.

But if it was pre-finished mldg, a simple full sheet of board glued across the "uglies" will make it look boootiefool.

[unframed_mystery]

Wow that's fantastic! :cool: I can't wait to make one of those myself!!! thanks, Marc

[Marc Lizer]

I hope you have some fun with the project.

Here are some sources you may need:
Unfinished mldg supplier(s) (Vermont Hardwoods, Colorado Picture Woods, Foster Planing Mill, Azuelas, or Xylo)

(Water based) Aniline dye:
Highland Hardware, (800)241-6748 in Atlanta. (ARTI brand. )
or
Craftwoods, (800)468-7070 in Maryland.
or
Liberon / Star Finishing (707)877-3570 liberon.com

You will also need Flake Shellac: http://www.shellac.net/ShellacFlake.html

Since I was doing this one as a quick demo, I did not sand the maple. The lines you see are from the knives. Some 380 will do just fine.

Remember no steel wool if you are using a water based dye. But OK once you start to laq it.

If you are odering chop (even of pre-finished mldg), and even if you are putting glass and a photo or needlework in the window, face up like a regualr frame, remember: The base can only be cut once you have the lid made.

The OOD of the lid is the OOD of the base. Meaning you cut the base with the metal stop, and not the wood stop.

good luck.

Let me know how it progresses

[Less]

Marc,
Thanks for all your effort.
What a great way to use the Grumbler!
I am much more likely to use pre-finished moulding. Can you explain the details of finishing off the Universal base. Is the top (bottom) painted? I can't see. How do you finish the edges of the mat board that lines the sides and the bottom of the top? That's a mouth full.
This is a timely project since a friend is now making custom computer generated tiles. I'll post the finished project. Great Column!

[CharlesL]

Marc,
I think it was darn nice of you to post the step-by-step 'photo story' of your great box! Not to mention the material list.
It was very unselfish of you to share the 'how-to' with the rest of us. I, of course, know my limitations, and would never even attempt it, but, as the old saying goes, "I don't know anything about making jewelry boxes, but I know what I like!!"

Thanks, again, and keep up the good work.

[Sandie]

Marc,

How would you go about pricing this project?

I like your idea and hope to try it sometime when I get some free time. Thanks for sharing!

Sandie in Maine

[John Gornall]

Well done Marc!

One suggestion from a woodworker - how about mortising the hinges so they and the screws don't show? Just leave the hinge pins showing.

[demi-vierge]

What a brilliant idea, I'm gonna give it a go and see how I get on.

[Velcro]

That was so inspiring! Great Work! Now to find some cool tile....