Saw trick for cutting wide mldgs.

[Dave]

OK, maybe I'm sometimes slow on the uptake, but I learned something that I thought I'd share with anyone as unimaginative at problem solving as I often am.

My saw's only a 10" blade. I needed to cut some 5" wide mldg. which I thought was not possible on my saw. Called my woodworking buddy who I was sure had to have a 12" or larger diameter saw and asked him to cut it for me. He asked, "Why don't you just cut it yourself?" ...and proceeded to show me how to put a lifter block under the mldg so that the blade could then cut through the wider-than-I-thought-my-saw-could-cut moulding.

Duh ...

So all in all yesterday was a good day. I learned two new things ...this and how to use the Attache-EZ to stretch a canvas.

Life's good and I'm happy :p...so don't all you wiser than me folks out there flame me for not already knowing this because somewhere out there in Grumbleland is going to be another soul who never thought of this either.

Maybe sometimes I'm not "Drawing on the Right Side of My Brain", but I hope this helps someone, somewhere, someday, sometime, someway, somehow.

:D

Dave Makielski

[Paul Cascio]

Dave, I guess I'm challenged, but I don't get it. A 10-incvh blade at a 45-degree angle still doesn't get through more than about a 4-inch wide moulding according to my calculations.

Can you explain this or send me a pic.

Thanks,
Paul

[David N Waldmann]

At the very bottom of the blade the cutting width is 0. In the middle it's the diameter of the blade. So, by lifting a moulding up closer to the middle sometimes it's enough to gain the extra you need.

We do this on the radial arm saw all the time. And that's easy, all you have to do is lift the front edge (the one towards you) after you pull the saw all the way out. On the 16" you can get an extra two to three inches that way.

[Dave]

Like David said ...

The actual mldg. I was cutting was about 4 7/8 and it cut through with no problem.

Dave Makielski

[BILL WARD]

simple solution....IF it flas enough to not hit the arbor nut!

where were you 3 mos ago when I had one???? I messed with it for 2 days before I got it cut right by reversing the pieces & using the sander.

[Dave]

Your right, Bill. This would not have worked with quite the majority of mouldings. It's Roma 8387 which is only about 1 1/2" high and totally flat across the surface.

A also had to adjust my saw for maximum cutting groove and lift my stop when I put the block underneath the moulding.

Since this moulding slopes down the back I cut in reverse with the rabbett toward the saw ...this gained me about a quarter inch.

OK, I admit it ...with any other moulding that wide this probably would not have worked. :icon11:

I guess it just proves true ...where there's a will there's a way!

Dave Makielski

[Framerguy]

That suggestion works great, DW, as long as it is a straight cut. When you are cutting an angle, however, raising the moulding at the end of the cut to finish the cut also changes the vertical angle of the cut. At a 45 degree angle you get a vertical cut through the moulding only when the moulding is lying flat on the saw table. If you raise it up to finish the cut that part of the cut will no longer by vertical.

Just a thought.

[DTWDSM]

Ok back up the bus.....

You stretched a canvas with Attach E-Z? Was this on foam board? Surely not on strecher bars.

[Jerry Ervin]

It was on foamboard Tim.

[Justin Alvarez]

yeah, Dave...back up the bus... as DTWDSM said... How did you stretch a canvas with Attach-EZ?


Justin

[Dave]

http://www.thegrumble.com/showthread.php?t=24819

Had a problem where canvas only had 1/2" borders and frame package selected wouldn't accomodate stretcher bars.

Dave Makielski

[Rick Granick]

Uuuuh, I thought we were talking about saws and blades.
:kaffeetrinker_2: Rick

[j Paul]

You miss the bus Rick, when you don't read the whole thread. hence the need for quotes.

Ok back up the bus.....

You stretched a canvas with Attach E-Z? Was this on foam board? Surely not on strecher bars.

[Rick Granick]

I did read the whole thread, and all of a sudden it went from the physics of saw blades to stretching a canvas.
http://re3.mm-a4.yimg.com/image/3050019857http://re3.mm-a4.yimg.com/image/2921674363
:popc: Rick

Edit: Oh, OK, now I see in the first post the canvas stretching was mentioned too. I had seen another whole thread about that and I thought it had somehow got mixed up with this one.

[DTWDSM]

.

Duh ...

So all in all yesterday was a good day. I learned two new things ...this and how to use the Attache-EZ to stretch a canvas.


Dave Makielski


No Frankenthread, he brought it up!

Now back to your regularly scheduled grumbling

[Rick Granick]

Point taken, Tim.
:icon11: Rick

[David N Waldmann]

That suggestion works great, DW, as long as it is a straight cut. When you are cutting an angle, however, raising the moulding at the end of the cut to finish the cut also changes the vertical angle of the cut. At a 45 degree angle you get a vertical cut through the moulding only when the moulding is lying flat on the saw table. If you raise it up to finish the cut that part of the cut will no longer by vertical.

Just a thought.

Absolutely. I guess I wasn't clear. We do that on the radial arm saw when cutting 90°. To cut an angle you would need to lift the entire piece up, not just the end or edge.

[BUDDY]

Suppose you have either a radial saw or a sliding circular saw. couldn't you lay the moulding on it's back and change the angle of the saw to a left or right sided 45 then draw the saw FWD makeing a cut across the width of any moulding ?

wouldn't hat make the same cut since the height of those moulding even with a shim under the rabbet to allow it to lie flat would probably only be an inch or so high? or is it obvious I didn't cut much moulding of any appreciable height?
BUDDY