Will Nori adhere to masking tape?

[PaulSF]

That's my evergreen slug question for today. The back of the slug is taped up with wide masking tape, 2 inches all around the edges. So the only place to hinge is directly to the masking tape. Will the nori paste adhere to this surface, does anyone know?

[Rebecca]

Hi Paul,

I personally don't think it would hold well. On the plus side, if they don't want to have the tape removed by a paper conservator (best choice IMO) then why don't you use one of the pressure sensitive framing tapes?

The masking tape will act as a barrier (albeit a terrible one!) between the slug and the tape you apply, so your tape wouldn't do any direct harm.

Rebecca

[PaulSF]

Rebecca, what would you recommend? I have 3M 889 in stock. Would that be acceptable, or should I get something different?

[Rebecca]

I'm not a big fan of double sided tapes for mounting things, as it can be so hard getting access when the time comes to remove. It usually means having to thin the backboard and remove from the back.

Don't know the weight of the slug, but how about something like P90?

Rebecca

[PaulSF]

Well, the problem here is that the customer is too cheap to spring for a window mat. I at least got him to go for spacers on the glass. The piece is 27x41, and I was hoping to mount it on a slightly larger matboard with pass-through hinges. Can I use the P90 as I would a pass-through hinge?

P.S. The nori paste didn't adhere the hinges to the masking tape at all. I had attached them in the early afternoon, and several hours later I was able to easily lift them off.

[Rebecca]

Yes, though you would have to cover the part you don't want to stick with paper. Or you might even try the pressure sensitive linen tape. Same about covering the part you don't want to stick.

Other's may have better ideas, as they're more familiar with the variety of framing tapes out there than I am.

Good Luck : )

Rebecca

[Susan May]

Um.... Masking tape will either dry up and let go, or become a gooey mess. Nori won't adhere to the tape, because it is not normally pourous. Best action is to remove the tape.

Teach your customer why they need to spend a little more. Sometimes we CAN'T give them what they think they want.

[PaulSF]

Thanks, Rebecca -- I'll order some P90 and try it.

And Susan, we all know it isn't that easy. Guy spends XX amount on his 1946 film poster, but won't spend more than $225 to get it framed. Yeah, he should go to a conservator, but he won't. Yeah, he should have a window mat, rather than spacers, but he won't. Yeah, he should use plexi rather than glass, but he won't. And yeah, he should do something nicer looking than a black metal frame, but he won't. I explained all this to him, and he has made an educated decision to be a cheapskate with questionable taste. So what am I supposed to do, turn him and his $225 away? I have bills to pay.

[Jim Miller]

3M #887 and #888 are single-sided versions of #889. They are all very-thin polyester film tapes with good acrylic adhesive -- non-migrating, chemically stable.

P-90 has taken some bad publicity in recent yers, having deteriorated and discolored in some applications. My guess is that #887 or #888 would be a better choice.

As Rebecca suggested, you're planning to put new tape over the masking tape, right? I would not suggest putting any pressure sensitive adhesive directly on the art paper.

Another possibility might be edge supports, which would provide good support if you can cover them with a window mat.

[Dave]

I might be missing something, but why not just use LineCo linen tape? The poster's already damaged with the masking tape and if he doesn't want proper conservation then near proper preservation with the linen tape should be "good 'nuff".

Dave Makielski

[Elaine]

Why not use conservatoin pocket corners instead?? you are using glass spacers and that will hold everything down and in place.

[Rick Granick]

If you want to do pass-thru hinges, I would go with the linen tape. The tapes Jim just recommended might work too, but you may want to experiment by hinging a piece of some paper you own to which you have applied masking tape to simulate the "slug". That way you can see what seems to be grabbing the masking tape best. I would stay away from P-90 for this simply because I don't think it would hold something that large- at least not for long. ;-)

:popc: Rick

P.S. Your thread title is one I never would have expected to see. ;-)

[PaulSF]

Elaine, the poster is 27x41, and the paper doesn't have any rigidity to it.

[PaulSF]

Well, the linen hinging tape from Lineco won't adhere to the masking tape either, and according to LJ, the 3M 888 tape has been discontinued.

I think I'm just going to have to call in Harry Potter, and maybe he can make an incantation that will miraculously hold this antique poster in place.

[Jim Miller]

... according to LJ, the 3M 888 tape has been discontinued.

#888 was 1" wide, and that number has been discontinued. #887 is the same tape formulation in 3/4" width, and it is available.

Again, I suggest you consider edge supports.

[Jerry Ervin]

How about ArtCare Restore?

Works great on old movie posters, I mean evergreen slugs.

[PaulSF]

I thought about Artcare Restore, but the 2-in wide masking tape isn't just along the top edge of the backside -- it goes all around the piece, and seems to hold together the 8 segments of the poster. So I'm worried that the tape would make a grid impression that would show through, if I drymount it. I'm also worried about the effect of the heat on the masking tape -- would it make it go gooey?

[PaulSF]

Jim, I'm not ignoring your suggestion of edge supports, but the customer won't spring for a mat to cover them. I think I'm at the point where I'm just going to use the double-sided 3M 889 tape. The customer, if he cares about preservation handling, isn't willing to pay me to "do it right." He's not going to take it to a conservator who will remove the masking tape and apply proper hinges. He's not willing to cover the borders with a mat. He wants it without a mat in an ugly metal frame for $225, and that's what he's going to get.

[mik]

Why can't you remove the masking tape using an iron or tacking iron set to medium heat and then remove any of the residual goop (if any) with Unseal. Then you could hinge it anyway you want.

[PaulSF]

Why can't you remove the masking tape using an iron or tacking iron set to medium heat and then remove any of the residual goop (if any) with Unseal. Then you could hinge it anyway you want.

Because I'm a framer, not a conservator.

[Dave]

OK, Paul...

Why not just slap a mess of masking tape all around the sucker...

:D


:faintthud:

Dave Makielski

[PaulSF]

OK, Paul...

Why not just slap a mess of masking tape all around the sucker...

:D


:faintthud:

Dave Makielski

I am sorely tempted!

[Jerry Ervin]

A small bead of Corner Weld across the top should hold it nicely.

If you fill the void of the frame in the back with foamboard or filler of your choice, there is no need for the spring clips. The spring clips can make thin things wrinkle.

Knock it out and put the money in the drawer. Next project.

[j Paul]

Paul, I think you already had your best answer on the 2nd post. Hinging to the masking tape that is there isn't going to do any more harm! Do it, and move on.


On the plus side, if they don't want to have the tape removed by a paper conservator (best choice IMO) then why don't you use one of the pressure sensitive framing tapes?

The masking tape will act as a barrier (albeit a terrible one!) between the slug and the tape you apply, so your tape wouldn't do any direct harm.

Rebecca

[Emibub]

This is such a framing crime with an antique involved but, it is already damaged, why not skip the spacers and let the glass hold it in place? That choice would be better with plexi and from the sounds of it he won't spring for it. Just a suggestion.

I know glass up against it is a no-no. No need to elaborate on that fact please and thank you!

[Jim Miller]

Emibub makes a good point. Acrylic glazing could be your salvation here, if you could give up the spacers.

j Paul has a good point, too, about Rebecca's post. If you could stick linen hinges to the existing masking tape with anything, it wouldn't harm the paper unless maybe it outgasses. How about using epoxy to attach hinges to the masking tape?

[PaulSF]

I agree about the acrylic, but remember -- $225. He won't pay for it, I already brought it up. Acrylic adds $138 to the price, over and above what glass and spacers would cost. Sorry if I seem frustrated, but my question about how to mount this isn't really "how is the best way to do this?" It's "how is the best way to do this given the limitations of budget and materials placed upon me by the customer?"

But I really like the idea of attaching linen hinges to the masking tape, if I can find something that would bond. In house, I have Gorilla Glue, Krazy Glue, and of course, Corner Weld. Would any of those be worse than an epoxy, in your experience? I can always run out to OSH and get an epoxy, if you think I shouldn't use one of those other adhesives.

[Jerry Ervin]

Use the Corner Weld.

It will stick.

[Jim Miller]

Yeah, CornerWeld might do the trick. I suggest sanding the masking tape first, to rough up the surface.

In fact, if you sand juuuuuust enough, could you get down to the art paper and use your Nori in those two or three small patches?