View Full Version : Float Mounting a Pastel
FramerBill
November 16th, 2006, 02:56 PM
I have a Pastel drawing ( approx 40"x16") that was created on a mounting board. I float-mounted the piece of art on a larger matboard and then framed it, using glass with Arlo 1/8" spacers.
The problem is the art keeps on releasing from the s-hinge that I used ( pressure sensitive tape with T-hinge on the back). This piece has come back twice already over the course of a year. I must get the mounting right this time if I am to keep this customer.
Any suggestions on a more secure and long lasting mounting method?
wpfay
November 16th, 2006, 03:03 PM
The pressure sensitive tape is the culprit. Use Japanese papers and starch paste (Nori) for your attachments. There is a tutorial on Frametek's website on the procedure.
srw19artist56
November 16th, 2006, 03:28 PM
I would just wonder if the japanese paper would be strong enough for hinging a board. I've used the gummed paper & gummed linen tapes for heavier papers succesfully.
Ditto on the self-adhesive stuff. Doesn't hold up-literally!
Sharon
RoboFramer
November 16th, 2006, 03:35 PM
It's drawn on matboard - if you pasted it to more matboard it would effectively now be drawn on thicker matboard?
Why did it need to be floated anyway?
FramerBill
November 16th, 2006, 04:56 PM
I agree, Japanese paper would be too thin to hold this up, however the nori paste might work well if a thicker hinge is used. Alternately, additional hinges could supply additional holding power.
Why floating? It looked good and the customer wanted it that way. I may, however, need to reverse that and mount it under a mat with supports hidden out of sight.
wpfay
November 16th, 2006, 05:27 PM
Laminate sheets of the Japanese paper together with the Nori to get the desired strength.
RoboFramer
November 16th, 2006, 05:40 PM
Excuse me if this sounds thick..... but if you are attaching hinges to the back of the matboard with nori paste - lots of them or fewer but strengthened, why not just eliminate the hinges and keep the spots of Nori paste?
It's just as easily reversible but won't reverse itself. In fact, depending on the value of the drawing AND THE QUALITY OF THE MATBOARD IT IS DRAWN ON - a lesser quality paste/adhesive could be used. Matboard's 'plys' are very easily separated should the need arise - easy to get back to the matboard that the thing was drawn on.
I would have used this method in confidence and never seen the darned thing again.
froptop
November 16th, 2006, 07:25 PM
I would use gummed linen tape with pass-through 'T' hinges.
Jim Miller
November 16th, 2006, 07:29 PM
If you can get permission to overmat the edges, then you can sink-mount the art. End of story.
Framing Goddess
November 16th, 2006, 07:32 PM
I see absolutely no problem with plying several thicknesses of mulberry paper together (like what Wally said) and using lots and lots of pass-through hinges and on all sides.
edie the pastecooker goddess
RoboFramer
November 16th, 2006, 07:47 PM
So - c'mon - is there a problem with pasting your (probably better quality) matboard directly to the matboard the thing is drawn on?
Not completely pasting the whole surface - just the odd strategically placed dabs?
Hinges .... er .... HINGE! there is/can be movement - direct adhesion - easily reversible - surface-to- surface, makes the thing stay put, are we getting paranoid? We're not talking art on flimsy paper, we're talking art on board - what's the problem?
Jerry Ervin
November 16th, 2006, 07:55 PM
Robo is on to something here.
What he describes is exactly the way I would approach it.
preservator
November 17th, 2006, 08:56 AM
One can make laminated hinges out of Japanese tissue, that will hold something as robust as a piece of board, but they need to be properly constructed. Such hinges are outlined in the Preservation Supplement on
Hinging at the articles index part of the Pictureframingmagazine.com web site.
The important points about such hinges are that the layers of hinging tissue
be bonded with polyethylene sheet and heat. That means that the layers will not come apart, when wetted by the paste. The other important point is the
fact that the hinge should spit into two tabs, at its end, so those end pieces
can be pasted to the back of the board, in opposite directions. This means that when the bonded part of the hinge has been passed throught the back mat, the pasted portion will not pull off the back of the board, in a zipper failure.
Hugh
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