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Hobbes03
July 8th, 2002, 04:46 PM
A customer of mine has the glass portion (decorative painted part, don't know what else to call it) of an old pinball machine which he would like framed. He also would like lighting installed behind the glass to illuminate the artwork. I checked Hobby Hill's website and they have specialty lights for shadow boxes. My question is, have any of you more seasoned framers ever done something like this (lighting from behind), and is there anyone else in addition to Hobby Hill that would have specialty lighting for a project like this? The glass measures 19"x22" and is 3/16ths thick. Any tips would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

-Mike.

Curly Grumble
July 8th, 2002, 05:17 PM
Mike, I did a similar box (for Stained Glass Window) years ago. Used the small flourescent tubes that any lighting/hardware store should have. (Home Depot if there is one near you) As I recall I used two (2) sets of 2 tubes each) 1 mounted on each inside edge of the Box. I made mine from clear pine and attached the framed window to the box. Box was painted to match wall (client supplied paint). They now have low-voltage halogen lights (at Home Depot) with a "touch switch" for Low,Med.,High and OFF that I have used as undercounter lights and I imagine they could be used for your box. As I recall the Flourescent tubes that I used were all that was available at the time (NO Halogens yet). You might find you need vent holes top and bottom to let out heat build up. Maybe 1/4" diameter and paint inside of holes to match outside of box. Hardest part is hiding the cord. They do make a plastic channel that is sorta "U" shaped that attaches to the wall and contains the cord. It can be painted also. Good luck with your project.

Jack Cee
July 8th, 2002, 05:19 PM
I suggest that you may want to research "back lighting" in the grumble and on the hitchhikers. I have not done one but am familiar with the process. Research small florescent fixtures in deep mouldings and experiment with different colored glasses in front of the light for scattering effect. It may be necessary to vent you moulding in order to allow for heat passage. You may want to look at the use of fiber optics also. I know of customers that have payed upwards of $700 for similar sized jobs.

Jack Cee

Mike Labbe @ GTP
July 8th, 2002, 05:24 PM
My only concern with HALOGEN is that they tend to run hot. Flourescent runs cool, but has a shorter life.

Too bad LED's arent brighter. I've seen some commercial/imported frames with LEDs built in that light up in different blinking patterns. Something like this would be great, but it sure sounds like a lot of work. It would require a controller of sorts.

I've never done anything like this either. I wonder if flourescent would work, with the inside painted white to better distribute the light?

Very interesting project!

Curly Grumble
July 8th, 2002, 06:30 PM
Originally posted by Curly Grumble:
You might find you need vent holes top and bottom to let out heat build up. Maybe 1/4" diameter and paint inside of holes to match outside of box. Mike I agree that they run alittle "hot". But it is a truer light and probably worth the extra heat.
Curly

JRB
July 8th, 2002, 11:41 PM
An actual pin ball machines back board is illumninated with individual small, low voltage bulbs positioned behind the glass screens design. Amongst the small bulbs they have high voltage "burst" bulbs, that flash when various scores or trigers are hit.
If you want it to look authentic, make a box and use low voltage Christmas lights. Get a string of them, position them approperatly behind the design, remove the excess bulbs from the strand.
If your in doubt about how it should look, go to an arcade and check them out.
You don't want this to light up the whole room, it should just be a soft glow.

John

Rick Granick
July 9th, 2002, 12:23 AM
I have had success with backlighting using the flexible "rope lights" in plastic tubing that are available nowadays. I used pegboard for the backing, which provides ventillation and also makes it easy to attch the light string at various points. There is some heat, but certainly less than you would have w. halogens, and this should be just about the right amount of light for the project you describe. If you do a search, you'll find a slightly more detailed description of my project on a previous thread.

Good luck. :cool: Rick

Hobbes03
July 9th, 2002, 06:27 PM
A big thanks to all who responded, you've given me some great ideas as usual. As always it is greatly appreciated!

-Mike.