Nielson Profile 100

[Freda Framer]

Has anyone had problems with Nielson Profile 100 (shadow box moulding). We have sent it back to be re-chopped because we couldn't get all 4 corners to join well. In addition, regular glass rattles in the glass channel. Any suggestions for ways to solve the glass problem?

[Dermot]

Sorry I can't offer any advice to your problem we do not have Nielson in Ireland at present, though from experience glass does vary in thickness depending on the original factory it comes from (factory as distinct from the glass processors).

Good luck and welcome to The Grumble.

Dermot
ON THE EDGE Picture Framing

[Rick Granick]

Yes, we have also had problems with the Nielsen 100 profile. It appears to be made from a slightly thicker aluminum extrusion than most of the others, and because of its tall height but narrow width it must be difficult to keep vertical and still in the saw. We have gotten corners that weren't exactly 45 degrees, excessive burrs or rough cuts, etc. from more than one supplier. I like the look of this profile, so I hope the chop people get their acts together before Nielsen discontinues it. I've had some luck with using a sharpening stone to clean up the edges and then coloring the cut edge with a black marker before assembly on the black finish.
As for eliminating glass rattle in the top groove, I tried bits of kneaded eraser like I use on profile 55, but this does not work on 100 because of the face's setback. I had some luck with pulling off two plies of a thin strip of blackcore matboard and shoving it between the glass and frame lip in strategic spots. It's crude, but it seems to work.
;) Rick

[Kit aka emrr]

I tried to order this moulding when it first came out but was told it had been sent back to the drawing board because of design problems.

I'm glad to hear it's available now, though it sounds like they didn't quite get all the bugs out.

Plexi is a little thicker than glass. Do you think using it would help with the loose glazing problem?

Kit

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Time flies like an arrow; fruit flies like a banana

[Slowalkintexan]

We use 2.5 mil glass, it doesn't rattle, the 2.0 mil glass is too thin.

[Freda Framer]

Thanks to all for your suggestions-I do appreciate your input. I will check the thickness of our glass to be sure that we have 2.5mm.

This is a Christening gown (hand-made from my customer's wedding dress) that needs to be removed each time a new grandchild arrives. The customer has removed it from a similar metal frame---believe it or not, without taking the hardware loose. It has been sewn to a single sheet of regular matboard with nothing else behind it for support. It was brought to our shop because it had been dropped causing damage to the frame and broken glass.

We have used rag board and will put a sheet of acid-free foamcore behind it and we will suggest that she bring it back to us for removal. However if she insists on removing it herself, then the plexi may be the best solution.

Many thanks from Freda Framer

[Freda Framer]

Rick,
We tried using the thinnest spacer we could find and we tried using tape on the edges. I am a bit leary, with this customer removing the piece from time to time. A stained glass designer suggested using a thin, narrow strip of weather-stripping. I will try all solutions tomorrow. Thanks for sharing.

[Framar]

Freda Framer: I have another idea for you. If the customer is going to take their own metal frame apart, I always run through the procedure with them , tape the instructions onto the back of the frame, AND color-code (with a magic marker) two RED screws of the top rail. This way they only have to loosen two screws and they won't go crazy and try to take the whole thing apart.

Most of the time I use Quikcorners, which only have one piece, it's easier for me and it is less confusing for the customer (only one part instead of two-I used to work at a DIY shop-ugh). Of course one customer was more confused than I thought because he was looking for a Phillip's screwdriver. Had the corner in upside down.

Good luck!

[rosetl]

There is also a fairly new product out -- I believe by Frame TEK or Framespace -- one of the spacer making companies. Anyhoo -- it is a tiny clear plastic channel that has give to it -- sort of a soft U. It is made for edge protecting glass -- especially when it would be shipped to add a cushion effect. Should work great. It's a lot like edge stripping made for framers AND will help keep the customer from glass cuts when they take apart.

[Freda Framer]

We finally solved this one by using the 2.5mm glass and we did get Quik corner hardware. The happy customer left the shop with instructions about removing one rail only. I see that United Mfgrs. has the product called "Glasgard" that I believe is the "U" shaped product mentioned above.

Thanks Fellow Framers from an Un-Frazzled Freda Framer

[Frugal Framer]

We just completed the first job using this moulding and found that glass guard product will not work with these metal mouldings with a separate glazing rabbet. Our solution, similar to Rick's, uses strips of peeled blackcore suede.

Cut 1/2" wide strips of blackcore suede mat the length of the frame rails and peel the suede off the mat. Then, we folded the suede strip to form a 1/4" wide strip with the suede on the inside. This strip was inserted into the glazing rabbet. Tru-Vue Conservation Clear fits nicely with no rattle.

I was surprised that the moulding was relatively easy to chop and have corners that were not half a bubble off perfect.

Rick Bergeron - CPFcm
Coeur d'Alene, ID

[John Richards]

As a chop supplier, this is a difficult moulding to cut. We are getting better and we usually touch the mitre with a mitre sander to clean up the edge. Our experience is Tru Vue glass in general works better because it is slightly thicker than others. I really like the Suede suggestion!

John