Attaching a molding to a mirror that is attached to a wall?

[Brian Gorman]

A customer of mine has a home where the home builder installed a mirror directly to the wall. Any suggestions on how to attached a frame to wall without removing the mirror?

[Frank Larson]

Double stick foam tape and construction glue. The tape will hold it in place until the glue sets up. Of course you're going to shave the frame down until the rabbet depth is the thickness of the mirror aren't you??? Or you could fill most of the rabbet with wood and color it to match the frame. The other chioce is to use suction cups and pull the mirror off the wall (if you feel lucky!) and stick it in the frame and rehang to cover the damage to the wall. Good luck...glad it's not my job!

[fttom]

That mirror is probably attached to the wall with mirror mastic. Don't even think of trying to get it off. Build a frame to fit around it. Put the frame in place. Then, nail or screw through the side of the moulding into the wall to hold the moulding in place. You could use a little construction adhesive under the moulding, and then you would need fewer mechanical fasteners.

[Sanabria]

If it was installed with mirror mastic attempting to remove it will damage the mirror as well as the wall behind it. A good mirror mastic is formulated to create a permanent bond after curing. Some will advise you to use piano wire behind the mirror using a back and forth sawing motion to "cut" the mastic from between the mirror and the wall. This is possible but takes a lot of practice and a few ruined walls and/or mirrors. I recommend building the frame to the required size and depth(rabbet) of the mirror. Then install as previously mentioned using double-sided tape along with REAL mirror mastic. Do not use silicon or other "construction grade" adhesives. As these will damage the mirror if they come into contact with the back or edge.

Good Luck!

[preservator]

Is there any space between the back of the mirror
and the wall? If there is, you might be able to
secure long nails to the back of the frame with
staple nails so that the long nails can be pushed
into that space and the mirror can hold the frame
to the wall.

Hugh

[lise]

In situations like that, people usually just put a whole new mirror over top and just slightly larger. Commercial grade silicone by Dow Corning will not damage the back of the mirror. We use it all the time to secure large mirrors in frames.

[Brian Gorman]

Great advice! Attaching the mirror to the wall with mastic or construction adhesive seems to be the best avenue! This is a pretty big mirror and removing it just doesn't seem like an option.

Thanks Grumbies!

[Cobalt]

I get this request 3 or 4 times a year at least.
Usually the mirrors rest on the back splash and go all the way to the corner. Flush mounting directly to the mirror is the only option. (Besides removing the old mirror and starting over.)

Most of these mirrors are 32x60. Starting over sounds cheaper as long as you hire the professional piano wire handler. Crack the sink, gouge the wall, dent the cabinets, chip the tile and they wish they had bought the frame. Sorry... one customer's nightmare attempt at do-it-yourself.

Love the idea of glueing a new mirror over the old one! The mirrors exposed to the extra salt and humidity tend to corrode arround the edges.

Any suggestions on a backing if the frame is deeper than 1/4 inch. Wouldn't want to use anything that would absorb and hold moisture.

Would appreciate any advice. This is a common problem in my neck of the swampy woods.

[SouthernFramers]

We just had such a project, and the solution turned out to be a beauty. As Frank said, glue the frame on, then, wood is good, but we did mirror bevel strips, 2” wide, cut to size and glued into the rabbet space to fill it.

Happy Holidays to you all!
Donna

[fttom]

Don't use wood as a filler. The environment is too wet. It will mildew and rot. Use coloroplast. That is a corogated plastic. Mark Lizer can probably tell you where to get the stuff in your area. Are you out there, Marc?