Question Not Pertaining To Framing

[iceref]

How do you like that description Ron?

A customer of mine is making a table for her son's fraternity. The table top is 1/2" MDF and it will sit on an empty keg (quite appropriate for college life). On top of the MDF she is gluing beer bottle caps. The question I thought I'd throw out is what product could she use to fill in between the bottle caps that would make the would make the surface level? In other words is there a glaze or grout or some other material she could use? I should mention, HD advised her to use a caulk they sold her and it made a horrible mess on a practice piece. It dried clear but very gooey.

I hope I described the project to give you a good idea of what this thing looks like and I sincerely hope no one takes offence to my posting this on our forum. I told her there was only one place I could go to perhaps find a solution and this is it.

Thanks in advance for the input I'm sure I'll receive.

[framah]

It seems that she is willing to experiment with ideas before actually doing the job. So... how about for adhering them to the board she try the adhesive used behind tile you would put into a shower. She can trowel on areas of ahdesive and push the caps down into it. Then when she is all done, she can fill in around the caps with tile grout. This should help reduce the area where things can get funky, if you know what I mean. She probably should put an edge cap onto the edge of the mdf. This way it allows her to have a closed in area for the adhesive and the grout to fill. Hope this helps :D

[iceref]

That was my original suggestion framah. She didn't go for it becuase she wanted a clear filler. She plans to use E6000 to glue the edge of the cap to the table so she wants the filler to be clear. Any other ideas? Maybe there's some kind of glaze the she could use.

[Jerry Ervin]

Originally posted by iceref:
She didn't go for it becuase she wanted a clear filler. How about the resin that is used to make plaques?

Jerry

[Cliff Wilson]

I think she'd be better off putting a sheet of tempered glass over the top and running a trim board around the sides. I was in a fraternity. No matter what she uses for an adhesive or what she fills between with, those caps are coming off. I think a full sheet cover has a better shot at longevity.

[Bob Shirk MCPF]

I would use bar top finish. I don't know the brand or trade name at this writing. It is a clear resin finish that has a high viscosity. You pour this stuff on. You will need to build a curb around the top to contain the finish untill it cures.

I think you can get this stuff from Woodcraft Supply Co.

[ 06-03-2003, 12:54 PM: Message edited by: Bob Shirk CPF ]

[Pat Murphey]

There is a clear resin (I believe it is called casting resin) used for surfboards that was also used a lot for bar furniture in California, often in a thick clear coat with objects like shells embeded below the surface. People in the surfing business may be able to help you.

Pat :D

[Cliff Wilson]

Forgot about bar resin. Great idea! Whatever she does, the surface has to be above the bottle caps.

[wpfay]

I've done similar projects with catalytic resin. If a surf shop isn't nearby, you might check with a boat repair facility. It goes on in layers or it overheats from the catalytic reation. The resin can also be used to adhere the bottlecaps, but you will have to work in small areas or very, very fast. Check the reation of the paint on the bottle caps with the resin before proceeding.

This will be very heavy when complete, and the weakest link will be the MDF. It has been known to expand in the presence of spilled beer.

[framah]

Good point about the MDF. you'd be better off using plywood. I remember WAY back when I was in California, they used to make tables from deck hatches and the finish was poured then polished. In that case you would need a frame around the wood to stop the fluid from flowing off. This then would be removed and the edges polished. Actually, the frame would need to be about 1/4" away from the wood so the resin could build up on the sides as well. I always thought the resin was polyurathane.

[framah]

OOH...OOH!!! I got it! To stick the caps to the table, she would pour a small layer of resin onto the wood. Just enough to hold the caps. Then when that layer was fully cured, she would pour the rest to cover the caps. Of course, this all assumes she doesn't pass out from the fumes first.
There! How about that!!?? :D

[Cyndi Ryder]

iceref,

This table sounds really cool! Try a product called Envirotex. Sounds like it's just the thing!

Here's a link -
www.eti-usa.com/consum/envtex/envlite.htm (http://www.eti-usa.com/consum/envtex/envlite.htm)

Have Fun!

Cyndi

[Merlin Framers]

Those tables are neat. But Cliff states the obvious. We had a similar table in our Military Aircrew bar. Whoever had made it had used the maritime clear resin and pushed the bear tops into it. It did set really hard. However. Game on.. It became a challenge, the more the beer flowed the bigger the knives/chisels. In the end 6mm safety glass had to be used to retain the 'work of art' and comply with health and safety regulations in a public place.. sorry to put the top back on the bottle!!!!!!!!!

[BarnOwlGrafix]

I would have to agree with Cindy. Envirotex is the way to go. Twenty-five years ago I worked on a crew building a bar top for a new restaurant. The bar top was 24 feet in diameter and 2 feet wide. We spent two days covering the top with over $1200 worth of new shiney pennies,all faced and arranged edge to edge in two layers. In each of four quadrants,on the third layer, we arranged the script logo name of the club in new shiney dimes. This entire top was then covered with approximatly 40 gal. of Envirotex to a depth of 1/2 inchin one continuous pour. It is a two part mix of resin and hardener with some strong vapors.Give it a try.
I hate to add, but I did see this on the shelf at Michael's. OUCH!
have fun.
Ben

[iceref]

Thanks everyone, I knew I could count on this forum. I'll let you all know what she does.

[Sharonx]

Good luck with the table. My daughter made a lamp for her college bound son from a mini beer keg. South Dakota State College would not let him have it in his dorm room even tho it was empty and wired. It still represented alcohol. Go figure.
Sharon

[jframe]

For awhile in the '60's resin casting was the rage in the craft world. You went to a craft store to do it, because they had to buy the resin in drums. You may have to find a place that does it and take the table top there to get it done. Like iceref said you could probably find it at Michael's but it would take a lot and they would probably have to order some extra for you.

[GRYPHON 1]

I just visited a framer in Ft. Worth Tx. who had done a table just like this and had it displayed in his store. He had floated back stage passes and concert tickets in the resin. (very cool). I would suggest using the mdf top but painting it first with a paint that wont react with the resin. An interesting side note is that i noticed the resin reacted with some of the tickets and bleached out the printed part. You may want to experiment with a few caps first to make sure the printing doesnt react.