Why can't I find info on how to mount a gun under search?

[Emibub]

Okay, I am under the gun here.(pun intended) I can't seem to find any info other than how not to mount a gun. I just took this and it is due for Christmas. I was going to use mighty mount gun holder but I read they didn't work. Anybody have any quick ideas? I hate having to learn under the gun.(another pun)

Both pieces aren't all that big. The whole frame size is going to be 14X20. The highest point of the gun is 2". The trigger thingy is at 1 1/8". I'm sure the info is there, I am just in a panic as all of sudden I am innundated with all this hard stuff because nobody else can do them. I just can't say no, I need the business. Any help would be much appreciated.

http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0RgDdAoUV3P*VBfuy5ShxN*RhHvJ4AWV4*O!Om!ajDt5xcJoSV t8nPLIVhqAIjE6V3j*AVlZVf6v40J*qAkx8o4e0qz0*CnLwgmL pYYTn6!0/gun.JPG

[doylestownboy]

Hi Kathy,

I would attemt to stitch the gun onto the backing using clear fishing line. Simply place the holes for the needle to pass through the backing as close to each other in a hidden area behind the handle and knot it in the back. A little dab of aquarium silicone on the front of the barrel might help stabilize it if unable to tie fishing line to the front somewhere.

[Framerguy]

Hi Kathy,

Most flintlocks were heavy as heck and I wouldn't trust fishing line by itself. It may stretch over time or possibly break. But, if you can build/buy some supports for the pistol, you could use a combination of solid support and monofilament to hold the gun on the supports.

Think of what would look good for that old a piece. Maybe a brass clothing peg like hardware stores sell or some kind of brass hook that could be attached to a solid backing and would help hold the weight of the pistol and powder horn.

How about building a square or diamond shaped "box" out of foamcore and matboard the same as the mat you will use for the backing? Small enough so it wouldn't look goofy but large enough to support the gun at the barrel and another behind the trigger guard. Picture an open box with the depth about the same as the thickness of the gun, the open end facing towards the back, maybe a block of wood cut to fit, glued into the opening in the "box" so you could attach it from the back with a couple of wood screws. The "box" itself would be covered in suede matboard or whatever you use for the backing board. This could be a "box" maybe only 1"x1"x1 1/8", just enough to support the weapon. THEN you could sew on the gun supported on the "boxes" and the clear monofilament could keep the gun from falling forward. If you need a better description, call me.

framerguy

[Rick Bergeron - CPF]

Kathy,

Think about using straps of Mylar D. Once you use mylar d for an odd shaped framing job, you'll wonder why you haven't been using it for years. The stuff is strong. Jim has all the specifics but it's something like each eighth inch wide strip will support 3 pounds. After taking Jim's class, I convinced Kathleen to try it on a project that had her stumped and now the use of mylar d in the frameshop is like duct tape is at home. Small strips can be tugged really tight and they are almost invisible under glass. We recently mounted everything except the gun for a police officer.... badge, handcuffs, brass knuckles, etc. All using very narrow strips of mylar d. I agree with Framerguy, the monofilament will stretch and break easily.

Mylar D thread (http://thegrumble.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=003605)

If you don't have any, I'll send you enough for the project... or I'm sure someone closer will be glad to help out.

[Jack Cee]

I presume that a trigger thingy is something like a trigger!!!! If it is and we are all talking about the same thing, I have this suggestion: Plan on mounting the weapon on a piece of 1/4" plyboard because of the weight; buy some 1/4 in bolts (black) and bend one so that it will fit into the barrel, bend another so that it will fit through the trigger guard and a third so that it will fit across the stock just behind the trgger guard and from the top. Drill 5/16 holes through the plyboard (after you have covered it with whatever you are going to cover it with) stick the threaded end through the holes, put a washer on the threaded end, a nut and tighten. These will hold any weight weapon in place. I suggest that you either spray the bolts black or cover them with an electricians shrink wrap and shrink to cover the ugly bolt. You are going to need a DEEP moulding about 3 1/2" deep or deeper; try it before you get to far into the challenge. You will probably want to cut off a portion of any thread that comes to close to your dust cover. Lots of luck; this makes a nice installation; we have done lots of them this way.

Jack Cee

[fttom]

Kathy, I've used the Mighty Mounts for guns with a little help from my rubber stamping heat gun to reshape it for that specific gun. If you don't have one of those rubber stamping guns, you can use a hair dryer. You just have to get the plastic pretty warm, and hold it in place until it cools down in the shape that you want. The last one that I did was for a blackpowder pistol and powder horn. If you can't get the plastic shaped just right, you can use a little really thin dark wire to hold the thing together so the gun can't slip out. I get that wire from Lowes. They sell it to put on the back of frames to hang them. It's a real fine gauge wire that's anodized black, and doesn't show up in the finished product.

[preservator]

Firearms are heavy enough that their weight should
be carried by a partial sink. The profile of the
gun can be traced onto the back mat and the area
within the tracing can be cut out. A multi-layer
backing of foam type board will be needed and it, too, should be excavated to fit the gun. The cavity in the backing board can be covered with acid-neutral paper. The final backing board should
be stiff (scrap acrylic works well) so that the
lashings can be secured to its back side. Whether
Mylar or monofilament or a combination of the two
is used, the partial sink will take much of the
weight of the gun. This should apporximate the look of antique boxed pistols and provide a safe
setting.

Hugh

[Bob Carter]

Kathy-We use pistol mounts that are two L-shaped brackets that are expandable and the grip and barrel fit into them for support. I have two sets in stock and can overnight them, if needed.

They are expandable to fit the pistol. The only problem is they have a cartridge design as the decoration (like a current pistol would use) and your bad boy is a ball projectile.

They still look neat and we use them as the best mount for firearms

Good news on the season for you

[JPete]

I just did a Russion colt 45, 1800. I used two gun mounts (Mighty mounts). I also ordered a pkg of multi pieces and in there was a piece with a hook on it which i put in the end of the barrel. I also had to mount 6 old shells with it and the little plastic pieces held those.
The hardest part was pushing the metal part on the back. I also cut one piece a bit short on
the expandable part but was able to get a longer tightning screw at Ace.

[Jim Miller]

Preservator's suggestion about making a partial sink may be the best approach, but it's difficult if you don't have the right materials & tools (expanded something-or-other and a hot-wire cutter to shape the cavity).

I would mount the gun with bent-rod mounts. 1/8" brass or 1/16" steel rods should support the gun. Bend the rods to conform to the parts of the gun you want to support -- probably three or four points. You can make the gun stand off the background if you like.

Polyflute is my favorite mount board for bent-rod mounts. It can first be covered with fabric or matboard as you like.

I poke each mount through the board from the front and carve away the back "skin" of the polyflute to open up space between flutes.

Then I bend the rod upward for vertical support, and then to one side for lateral support, so that it fits flush into the carved-out back of the board. Sometimes it's better to bend first, and then carve the board to fit the rod's bends on the back of the board.

Then I cement the rod mounts in place with 3M Mini-Weld (hotmelt glue would work, but it's not as rigid).

To protect the gun's finish and cover the brass, install pieces of matte black shrink-tubing (from an electrical supply house). It shrinks to cover each rod tightly.

Last week I mounted two antique pairs of handcuffs this way, standing 1" off the mount board. Customer was happy. I have a few pics, but don't know how to post them. I anyone who knows how is willing to do it, I will send them as email .jpg attachments.

Shameless plug: This kind of mount is detailed in "The Complete Guide to Shadowboxes and Object Framing", being offered twice at WCAF-Las Vegas next month. One of the classes is sold out, but the second class isn't yet.

[Ron Eggers]

Jim, if you have time to send the photos to me, I have time to post 'em. I'd like to see them myself.