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printmaker
June 4th, 2003, 11:56 AM
I hope some wise grumblino(s) can assist me with this one. It may sound "picky", but I'm known to be "picky" (actually, more like "anal") about details.

I have used these mylar corners, occasionally, in the past (similar to Lineco's "Self-Adhesive Preformed Mounting Corners") for customers who requested them.

I'll preface this with (A) the question(s). (B) will be the actual application for those who have nothing better to do than read smile.gif postings which are far too lengthy:

A) i) Is there any concern about the (front) edges of these corners eventually causing a permanent embossing on the (paper) artwork? :confused:
ii) If not, is there a brand you can recommend, or one which should be avoided?
iii) If so, is there a better alternative for conservation mounting artwork so that the customer can remove and replace it easily, and without damage?

B) The application is for (several hundred) hand-made marriage contracts. Because of the numbers involved, I want the "mounting" process to be relatively quick and painless for the framer (me)...

The paper will be fairly heavy 100% rag, hot-pressed watercolour paper (260 pound - roughly the weight of a 2 ply rag barrier paper).

However, because of the nature of this specialty item, I cannot offer it framed, as it must be removable to be signed by the bride, groom, cleric and witnesses. On the other hand, the artist would be upset if his work was presented poorly (that would be me, too ;) )... so ...

I have decided to offer these in a shrink-wrapped package, complete with conservation (an elegant triple - thank goodness for CMC's) matting and backing, along with an extra clear piece of mylar to protect the artwork between signing(s).

Going back to the original question(s), price aside (these won't be cheap), it would be upsetting (for me!!!) if the bride and groom opened their package, only to find their artwork scored by the edges of the mounting corners!

Thank you!

- printmaker -

printmaker
June 4th, 2003, 12:12 PM
P.S. The paper size will be 20" X 26".

Ron Eggers
June 4th, 2003, 02:45 PM
I've been using two versions pretty extensively for at least a year: The Lineco 1-3/8" Mylar corners and the L-J 2-15/16" (thank goodness they're not 3") Polypropylene Maxi-vision corners.

The only problem I've encounter was one case where I failed to allow enough breathing room for the print and it buckled. It was easy to fix.

Of course, the kind of problem you're asking about probably wouldn't show up unless you dismantled the framing for some other reason.

An alternative, if you're concerned about the corners, might be Vicki Schober's Art Saver Strips or the full length do-it-yourself version that Orton calls sills and cleats. If you want more info, just ask.

printmaker
June 4th, 2003, 04:33 PM
Originally posted by Ron Eggers:
... 1) Of course, the kind of problem you're asking about probably wouldn't show up unless you dismantled the framing for some other reason.

2) An alternative, if you're concerned about the corners, might be Vicki Schober's Art Saver Strips or the full length do-it-yourself version that Orton calls sills and cleats. If you want more info, just ask... 1) Does this mean you would anticipate a problem :confused: ?
2) I am asking smile.gif ?

Thanks, Ron!

Ron Eggers
June 4th, 2003, 04:39 PM
No, if I were anticipating problems, I wouldn't keep using the corners.

I can't begin to describe how I do "sills and cleats" so I'll take a picture and post it.

I've been meaning to do that so that everyone can tell me what's wrong with the way I'm doing them.

It won't be today, though.

preservator
June 4th, 2003, 05:02 PM
If the certificates can be done on heavy stock,
you can make folded paper corners (the sort that
have two tabs that go onto the back mat and a
solid front)out of a conservation quality paper
and paste them to the backmat using a special
pattern that permits the item to be removed. This
entails attaching both taps of the bottom corners
and only the lower tabs of the upper corners.
This allows the the upper tabs to be unfolded so
that the item can be slid up and out of the
corners. It can be slid back in, later, and the
tabs can be carefully folded behind its upper
edge. If this is not clear, a diagram will be
coming out in Preservation Practices in PFM,
soon.

Hugh