Material for fitting counters

[trishh]

We will be updating our store's carpet and paint in the next few weeks. When we purchased the shop 2 yrs. ago, the fitting cabinets (which are out in the retail space) had carpet on top. Too much lint for the fitters, so currently they are covered with brown paper. Doesn't look so great - OK - looks terrible! Any suggestions on what to use on fitting tables that are visible to customers? It is too costly to remodel at this point and move them to the back of the store. Besides, our customers like to see how we work and what other customers bring in to us.
Thanks for your suggestions

[Patrick Leeland]

An inexspensive counter covering that can be replaced easily is coroplast. It allows you to move items around the counter without scratching them. Nice clean look, and if you really wish it is available in a wide variety of colors.

Jim Miller will tell you more reasons why he likes it. He got me to thinking of coroplast on counters.

PL


Welcom eto the G, nice to have you and have fun!! Where is Cary in NC?

[EllenAtHowards]

We put the used sheets of release paper from our 40x60 vacuum press on ours. It is slick and protects the surface of the frame. We try to always pick it up to turn it, but it is all too easy to drag it a little, and some of the finishes today...!

[Jerry Ervin]

Welcome to The Grumble trishh!


Chloroplast would be my vote also.

[Richard Allan]

Try Linoleum, or any think foam backed vinyl. Doesn't slip, damage frame finishes when upside down, stiff enough that you can write easily on a piece of paper and has enough "give" if you happen to bang the frame, it shouldn't damage it.
It also cleans up nice and easy, no more hidden staples or putty in the carpet. The challenge is to find a pattern that doesn't remind you of grandma's kitchen floor.
Try one of those "end of the roll" guys.

[Elaine]

Are you the new owners of Framemasters and Awards??

[Bill Henry-]

I’m a big fan of carpet on my fitting tables.

It would seem to me that tiny shards of glass, chips of whatever, or general goobers too small to see might get on smooth Coroplast and scratch a frame if you slide it.

That kind of frame killer will fall to the base of the carpet (?the (k)nap) so, IMHO, it is less likely to scratch. Just vacuum the table every week and you’re good to go. I’ve had my tables carpeted for twenty some years without any problems. When I’ve gotten a small dollop of glue on the table, I just cut out the pile thread with scissors.

[RoboFramer]

My workbench is not on view but I use ribbed rubber matting and love it.

[Doug Gemmell]

Chicken wire.

[Jay H]

I have always thought it would be sexy to have tanned leather. It would never wear out and age like wine. It would clean well and still be soft. The problem I'm guessing would be price and decor. My place is quite modern and rusic looking leather on top just wouldn't do it. I can still dream!

Carry ON.

[Judi]

I would vote against coroplast. I can't count the number of finishes that rub off just from a slight slide while rotating. Even if you try to pick it up every time, you'll miss some and the ones that tend to rub off are the hardest to fix.

We're now trying the white foam that is sold for the underlay of floating floors. Comes in big rolls and is cheap. You can get it with thin plastic surface on one side that cleans easily. When it gets too soiled we throw it and start over.

So far so good.

Judi

[Jim Miller]

Bill Henry, my experinece with carpeted tabletops was baaaaaad. The nap held all kinds of nasties out of sight, such as tiny glass shards and aluminum sawflakes. I never did find a vacuum that could pick up all of the stuff that settles into the nap.

Judi, your suggestion of floating floor underlayment seems interesting -- I will check it out.

Your comment about Coroplast makes me wonder if you have used it on your tabletops. It is smooth, more slippery and less abrasive than any paper or cardboard surface. Because it has a hard, smooth surface, it wipes clean easily and lasts a long while. And at less than $10 for a 48" x 96" sheet, it is cheap enough to throw away when it gets worn or excessively dirty.

Sliding or turning an upside-down, fragile-finish frame could be disasterous on any table surface. For that, I suggest using a tray of plastic, rubber, or other smooth, not-too-slippery material that can be turned with the frame. Some framers use a "Lazy Susan", a small table on a base with bearings, made to spin.

[Judi]

Jim, I've been using coroplast for quite a while after one of your posts on HH. But I guess your right sliding a frame is risky - hence the rubbed off finishes.

I've been framing flat on the table for 25 years but always on a softer surface. None were satisfactory. I thought coroplast was the answer but I guess it doesn't go with my work style. Not sure if I'm up for changing that. I'll let you know the pitfalls of the underlay, I'm sure there will be some.

Judi

[osgood]

My worktop has a quarter inch of felt, then numerous layer of fleecy fabric (fleece side down) over the top. The fabric is stretched a bit and stapled around the edges.
Even the most fragile finishes can be rotated safely and are never scratched on this surface.
The only pitfall is that I occassionally nick the surface and make a hole. About every two years, I put another layer over the top.

Fleecy fabric stretched over the top of Coroplast would soften the surface enough to make it safe for fragile finishes.